How to make a reversible quilted placemat
A reversible quilted placemat gives you two coordinated mats without making separate versions. Choose contrasting prints, join them around a batting layer, and finish the edge so either fabric can face up. It is a small project, but the result should sit flat and feel comfortable under a plate or cup.
The key is to treat both outer fabrics as one quilt sandwich. That approach keeps the batting hidden, allows the quilting to show on both sides and avoids the bulky ridge that often develops when two separately bound mats are stitched together.
Plan the size and select your fabrics
Set a finished size of about 45 by 35 cm, a useful size for a standard dinner plate and a teacup. For a 1 cm seam allowance, cut two fabric rectangles at 47 by 37 cm. Make six if you are covering a long table for a family lunch, but cut and test one before repeating the batch.
Australian quilters often buy fabric by the metre at Spotlight stores in Sydney and Melbourne, or at an independent quilt shop. Lightweight quilting cotton handles warm weather and outdoor entertaining well, while a bottlebrush or waratah print gives one side a distinctly Australian look.
Prepare the quilt sandwich
Choose thin, washable batting that will not create a stiff edge. Cut it a few millimetres smaller than the fabric so its raw edge stays inside the seam allowance. Use a paper template to mark a diamond grid on the right side of each panel, spacing the lines about 8 cm apart.
Layer the panels with their right sides facing outwards and the batting between them. If your batting is fusible, iron it onto the wrong side of one panel first, following the maker’s directions; never guess the temperature or pressing time. Both printed faces should now be visible from opposite sides of the sandwich.
Quilt both faces in a matching pattern
Stitch along the marked lines with a straight stitch, working from the centre outwards. A walking foot helps feed all three layers evenly, although a standard machine can manage this small mat. Use a new needle suitable for cotton and stop frequently to check that the grid remains aligned; pulling the layers can shift the batting.
Quilting through the sandwich carries each line to the other face, so the grid will appear in corresponding positions on both sides. Check it from both sides, remove the paper template and trim loose threads before handling the edges.
Match the machine to the layers
A modest machine is enough for this project, provided its feed dogs move the fabric smoothly. The useful extras are a walking foot, a straight-stitch option and easy needle access, rather than a large collection of decorative stitches.
| Machine setup | Strength for this project | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Basic domestic sewing machine | Handles a small three-layer sandwich and straight grid lines | Smooth fabric feed, straight stitches and simple needle changes |
| Domestic machine with a walking foot | Helps move the fabric and batting together more evenly | Foot compatibility, included accessories and manual settings |
| Computerised quilting machine | Offers a larger work area and longer stitch options | Throat space, accessory availability and Australian repair support |
Check these features on the machine you already own before buying a special quilting model. Australian household power runs at 220–240 V, so an imported 110 V machine is unsuitable without proper voltage conversion. Check the supplied cord and local service support as well.
Turn and topstitch the placemat
With the quilting finished, pin the outer edges and sew a 1 cm seam around the perimeter, leaving a 5 cm opening in the middle of one short edge. Use the walking foot if available, and guide the corners carefully so the batting does not pucker.
Turn the placemat right side out through the opening, then finger-press the seam allowances towards the batting. Pull the corners gently so they meet squarely; a proper press at this stage gives a much neater edge than trying to correct stubborn folds later.
Trim the seam allowance into a shallow curve at each corner without cutting the stitching. Topstitch through all layers close to the edge, then sew a second line about 4 mm further in. The stitches will show on both sides, and the enclosed batting will stay inside the perimeter. Finish with a short backstitch at the opening, then press again.
Press, clean and store the mat
Turn the mat over after pressing and check the reverse for puckering. Use a warm iron on the fabric side, following the fibre and batting care labels. Fusible batting can soften or bond with excessive heat, so keep the iron moving and avoid pressing the fused surface directly.
Machine-wash in cool water with mild detergent when both fabrics and batting are washable, then line dry. Spot-clean first if the batting is not washable. Store the mat flat or roll it loosely rather than folding it into sharp creases.
Reliable choices for a neat, durable placemat
The following choices make the construction more predictable and the finished placemat easier to use:
- Pre-wash and press quilting cotton before cutting, so shrinkage does not distort the edges.
- Keep the batting thin and even; bulk at the perimeter is the usual reason a small mat feels stiff.
- Use a paper template and clips to keep the diamond lines consistent on both faces.
- Check the walking-foot fit and needle type on scrap fabric before quilting the full sandwich.
- Test the edge finish on a sample, then use the same seam allowance on every panel.
With a flat seam, tidy corners and a double topstitch, the mat can handle everyday summer meals and stay neat when turned over. Keeping both faces fully usable also makes it practical for a casual backyard barbecue, where one side may need a quick wipe before guests arrive.