How to sew a continuous bias tape binding
Continuous bias binding is a clever shortcut that turns a small square of fabric into metres of flexible trim, perfect for finishing quilts, garments, and craft projects. Unlike straight-grain binding, which cuts on the lengthwise or crosswise grain, bias binding is cut on the diagonal at a 45-degree angle. This gives the strip natural stretch, letting it curve smoothly around corners and gentle arcs without puckering or distortion.
Sewers in Australia often reach for bias binding on hexagon quilts, curved table runners, and even kids' clothing hems. Because the fabric is cut on the bias, the binding hugs curves like a quilted baby blanket edge or the scooped neckline of a summer dress. It is a versatile skill that saves money, reduces fabric waste, and gives handmade projects a polished, professional finish.
Materials and prep for continuous bias binding
Before cutting, gather a square of fabric, a quilting ruler, a rotary cutter, a cutting mat, an iron, and pins or clips. Most Australian quilters work in centimetres, so grab a 50 cm square for a generous yield of binding. Cotton quilting weight is ideal for beginners because it presses crisply and holds a crease well. If you are sewing a heavy quilt, consider a slightly lighter fabric for the binding so it does not add bulk along the seam.
Pre-wash and dry your fabric to remove sizing and prevent future shrinkage, especially if your finished piece will be washed frequently. Australian tap water can be quite hard in places like Adelaide and parts of regional New South Wales, so a final rinse in cool water with a touch of vinegar helps neutralise mineral residue that can dull colours. Press the square flat so it lies smooth on the cutting mat, ready for accurate measurement.
Cutting and joining strips the continuous way
Lay the square right side down and fold one corner to the opposite corner, forming a triangle. Press the fold lightly, then unfold. Using a quilting ruler, mark the desired strip width along both edges of the diagonal crease; 6 cm strips yield a finished binding of about 1 cm, which suits most quilts. Draw parallel lines across the triangle from edge to edge at the chosen width.
Cut along the marked lines to create several strips, keeping the triangle shape intact. To join them into a continuous strip, offset two parallel strips by one strip width, right sides together, and stitch a 45-degree seam across the corner. Trim the seam allowance to 6 mm and press open. Keep repeating this step, feeding each new strip into the chain until the whole triangle becomes one long ribbon of bias tape. This method is faster than cutting individual strips and produces far less fabric waste.
Pressing and folding your bias tape
Once the long strip is joined, fold it in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press firmly. For single-fold binding, stop here. For double-fold binding, fold each raw edge in towards the centre crease, then fold the strip in half again so the raw edges are tucked inside. Run a warm iron over the entire length, using a damp cloth to add steam, which is particularly helpful during humid Queensland summers when fabric can feel limp.
If you own a bias tape maker, feed the raw edge through the wide opening and pull the strip through while guiding the folds with your fingers. The tool speeds things up considerably and produces uniform tape every time. Australian sewing rooms can be chilly in winter, so keep the iron on a stable, heat-safe surface and avoid drafts that can shift the folds as you press. Starch spray gives the binding extra body if you are working with a soft lawn or voile.
| Method | Stretch | Best for | Skill level | Yardage from a 50 cm square |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Straight-grain binding | Low | Straight edges, square quilts | Beginner | About 2.5 m |
| Continuous bias binding | High | Curves, hexagons, necklines | Intermediate | Up to 4.5 m |
| Store-bought bias tape | Low to medium | Quick fixes, craft projects | Beginner | Varies by spool |
| Hong Kong or seam binding | Medium | Decorative edges, garments | Advanced | Custom cut |
Attaching the binding to your project
Pin the binding to the raw edge of your project, right sides together, leaving a 10 cm tail unstitched at the start. Begin stitching in the seam allowance with a 6 mm allowance, backstitching to secure. When you reach a corner, stop 6 mm before the edge, pivot with the needle down, and continue off the edge, forming a 45-degree miter when you fold the binding back on itself and stitch down the next side.
For a clean finish on quilts and garments, use a walking foot if your machine has one, as it feeds the layers evenly and prevents the binding from shifting. An interesting tip from seasoned Australian quilters is to baste the binding to the front of the quilt first, then stitch-in-the-ditch from the back to catch the binding on the reverse. This hides the raw edges neatly and works well on busy prints where topstitching would be hard to see. Before long runs of stitching, a drop of quality sewing machine oil in the bobbin area keeps the machine running smoothly, and you can browse maintenance tips to keep everything humming along.
Care and finishing touches for a clean edge
Trim the excess binding, overlap the tails at a 45-degree angle, and stitch them together to close the loop. Tuck the raw edge of the binding under by hand-stitching with a ladder or invisible stitch for a handmade look, or press it to the back and topstitch from the front for a crisp, modern finish. If you are sewing for a gift, give the bound piece a final press with a pressing cloth to avoid shine on dark fabrics.
Caring for your tools extends their life. Wipe the iron soleplate clean after each session to prevent starch build-up, and store bias tape makers flat so they do not warp. Finished projects bound with continuous bias tape can usually be machine washed on a gentle cycle and tumble dried low, though handwashing suits heirloom quilts. With a little practice, this technique becomes second nature, opening up new design possibilities for everything from patchwork cushions to summer frocks.