How to Sew A Side Seam Pocket On Pants
A side seam pocket is a practical addition to trousers, shorts and skirts, giving you somewhere to carry keys, cards or a phone without changing the outside appearance of the garment. It is a useful technique for both beginners and experienced home sewers because the pocket is built into the existing side seam.
The process is straightforward when the pocket pieces are accurately cut and the seam allowances match. With a domestic sewing machine, an overlocker or a simple zigzag stitch, you can create a strong pocket that sits neatly and survives regular washing. Metric measurements and Australian pattern sizing make the method easy to adapt to garments bought or sewn locally.
Choosing The Pattern And Fabric
Start with a trouser, shorts or skirt pattern that includes a side seam pocket, or add a pocket shape to a basic pattern. The opening usually begins a few centimetres below the waistline and extends down between 15 and 20 cm. A deeper pocket may be more useful for a phone, but it should still be comfortable when you sit.
Use pocketing, cotton lawn, lightweight calico or a smooth cotton voile for the pocket bag. Heavy denim or linen can make the side seam bulky, while very thin fabric may tear under load. For Australian summers, breathable cotton is especially comfortable, and a stable woven fabric is less likely to cling to bare skin in humid parts of Queensland or the Northern Territory.
Before cutting, check the pattern’s seam allowance. Australian commercial patterns may use 1.5 cm, while some independent PDF patterns use 1 cm. The pocket opening and trouser side seam must be sewn with compatible allowances so the pocket edge meets the garment cleanly.
Marking And Preparing Pocket Pieces
Trace or cut two pocket bag pieces for each pocket, making sure they are mirror images rather than identical shapes. The pocket opening should follow the curve or angle of the garment side seam. Transfer the opening marks, waistline, hipline and any notches with tailor’s chalk, a washable pen or small snips within the seam allowance.
If the trousers have a front and back leg, mark the pocket position on both pieces. Stay-stitch the curved edge of each pocket bag just inside the seam allowance if the fabric is loosely woven. This small line of stitching prevents stretching while you handle the garment and is particularly helpful with linen, rayon or lightweight cotton.
Finish the raw curved edges before assembly if the material frays. An overlocker gives the neatest result, but a three-step zigzag or ordinary zigzag stitch works well. Do not overcast the straight joining edge if it will be enclosed inside another seam, as extra thread can create unnecessary thickness.
Sewing The Pocket Bag
Place one pocket piece right sides together with the front trouser piece, matching the pocket opening, notches and seam allowance. Stitch along the opening only, then clip carefully into the seam allowance around the curve without cutting the thread. Turn the pocket bag to the inside and press the seam so the garment fabric rolls slightly towards the pocket.
Understitch close to the pocket bag, usually 2–3 mm from the seam. This keeps the lining from showing at the opening and helps the pocket edge remain flat. If the fabric is slippery, use a few extra pins or hand basting before machine stitching.
| Pocket construction | Finish at opening | Best suited to | Machine requirement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Separate pocket bag | Understitch and overlock | Most trousers and shorts | Straight stitch plus zigzag |
| Extended front pocket | Edge stitch and press | Jeans and casual pants | Strong straight stitch |
| In-seam pocket with facing | Facing and understitch | Lightweight garments | Straight stitch |
| French-seamed pocket | Enclosed raw edges | Fine cotton and delicate fabric | Accurate straight stitch |
Place the second pocket bag against the first with right sides together. Stitch around the pocket curve and lower edge, leaving the side seam edge open if the pattern requires it. Trim bulky corners, grade the seam allowances and turn the pocket right side out. Press the pocket bag away from the trouser front.
Joining The Side Seam
Lay the front and back legs right sides together, keeping the pocket bags positioned towards the front. Match the waistline, hem, hip notch and the beginning and end of the pocket opening. Pin or clip through the pocket bags and side seams so the layers cannot shift.
Sew from the waist down to the top of the pocket opening, backstitching at the start. Stop accurately at the marked point, then sew from the bottom of the pocket opening down to the hem. Stitch around the pocket bag separately, joining its outer edge to the seam allowance of the back leg if the pattern shows this construction.
Reinforce the points where the pocket opening meets the side seam with a short second row of stitching or a narrow bar tack. This area receives stress when a hand or phone is placed inside. If the trousers are made from denim or canvas, use a longer stitch length of around 3 mm and strong polyester thread, while lighter fabrics usually suit 2.5–2.8 mm.
Finishing And Pressing
Press the side seam open or towards the back according to the pattern instructions. Press the pocket bag towards the front and check that it does not twist through the opening. A tailor’s ham helps shape a curved pocket, while a pressing cloth protects rayon, dark fabric and heat-sensitive synthetics.
Try the garment on before closing the waistband or finishing the hem. Put a phone or a few keys in the pocket and sit, walk and climb stairs. The pocket should stay inside the garment without pulling the side seam forward. If it swings out, the opening may be too low, the pocket bag may be too shallow, or the seam allowance may have been stretched.
For garments worn in places such as Melbourne’s changeable weather or on long public transport trips in Sydney, secure pocket construction is worth the extra few minutes. A small amount of reinforcement is less noticeable than a pocket that begins to gape after repeated use.
Machine Features And Practical Checks
A basic mechanical sewing machine is enough for this project. Look for a reliable straight stitch, adjustable stitch length, reverse sewing and a zigzag stitch for finishing raw edges. An overlocker is convenient but not essential. If you are comparing machines for general garment making, prioritise controlled low-speed sewing over a large decorative stitch menu.
Test the machine on fabric scraps that reproduce the pocket layers. Check that the needle does not make visible holes, the thread tension is balanced and the fabric feeds evenly over bulky intersections. A fresh universal needle suits most cottons; denim, leather-look fabric or heavier twill may need a jeans needle.
Useful habits for Australian home sewing include checking metric seam allowances, buying enough fabric before a seasonal sale at Spotlight or Lincraft, and pre-washing fabric to account for shrinkage. When a pattern or machine manual leaves a construction detail unclear, the site’s contact information provides a practical route for sending a specific product or sewing question.
Practical Checks For A Neat Pocket
- Match the pocket opening marks before stitching either side seam.
- Use a stable woven lining that is lighter than the main garment fabric.
- Clip curves carefully, stopping before the stitching line.
- Understitch the opening so the pocket bag stays out of sight.
- Reinforce both ends of the opening with secure backstitching.
- Test the finished pocket with the items you normally carry.
A well-pressed side seam pocket should lie flat, feel comfortable against the body and remain securely attached after washing. Once the method is familiar, the same construction can be adapted to pyjama bottoms, linen trousers, school shorts and everyday garments made for the Australian climate.